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Getting Your Storm Windows Ready For WinterBy Jim Sulski Summary: Storm windows can help you stay warm and keep your heating bills down. Jim gives you the basics on keeping your storm windows in tip top shape. Fall is marked by the turning of colors, a chill in the night air and the
changing of storms windows, a task considered a pain by many homeowners. While they're often under appreciated, however, storm windows make a tremendous difference each year as far as both comfort and energy savings. For example, energy efficiency experts estimate that heat loss through windows on most homes ranges between 15 to 35 percent of the heating bill. Storm windows curtail that loss. They also block the icy drafts that come on cold winter days. Storm windows are fairly simple from a mechanical standpoint. Although there are subtleties to almost every storm window, the most popular windows are aluminum-framed combination units that include the glass windows as well as screens. The glass sashes - one panel for the top portion of the window and one for the bottom - and screen panel fit into tracks on the frame. The panels slide up and down in the tracks, allowing screens to be used in the summer and the glass sashes to be used in the colder months. The most common type of storm window is what's known as a triple track, which means there are three tracks for the glass and screen panels to slide up and down in. While simple in design, storm windows are far from repair-free. For example, a couple of signs of storm window problems are drafty rooms and windows that condense or fog up on cold days. Replacing storm windows is an expensive proposition. A more economical option is to shore up your storm windows, spending as little as a hundred dollars or so, an investment you can easily recoup as far as lowering your energy bill. DRAFTY WINDOWS If a window is drafty even with the storm sash in place, it means there are problems, most likely with the storm window. The first possible solution is to make sure the storm window sashes are properly installed in their tracks. The upper sash is usually installed in the outermost tracks, the lower sash is in the middle track, and screen usually fits into the inner track. If the panels are out of sequence, reinstall them and see if you get a tighter fit. Another potential problem is the storms no longer rest correctly into the tracks as the both the house and storm window frame have shifted over the years. This usually results in storm sashes that won't fit into place or are loose and rattle. If the sashes get stuck during installation, don't force them up or down into the frame as you can shatter or crack the glass. First, make sure the tracks are clear and then spray the tracks with a silicone lubricant. That may help ease the sashes into place. If they still stick, look for bends or twists in the frame. A badly damaged frame may need to be replaced. If there are no visible bends, you'll need to reposition the frame so that the sashes glide smoothly and stay in place. Usually frames are held down by a few screws on the exterior of the building. Leave the sashes in place but have someone inside that can hold on to them. From the outside, loosen the vertical track frames from the storm window's primary frame, and use a screwdriver to move the vertical frames slightly in or out. Have the person inside test the sashes for a good fit before retightening the vertical frames. You may need to drill new screw holes into the vertical frames to fasten them to the primary frame or the house. Or you can enlarge the existing screw holes and use bigger aluminum screws to lock the frames in place. CAULKING AND WEATHERSTRIPPING Another source of drafty windows are gaps between the storm window frame and the house. Fix that by caulking around the storm from the outside. Remove any old caulk with a putty knife and then scrape the perimeter of the storm frame to remove debris. Apply a healthy bead of caulk around the entire window, including the underside. Also, caulk the area where the window trim meets the building. This will also help cut down infiltration. You can also caulk the inner side of the storm window where the aluminum frame
meets the wood above the windowsill. Also inside, you can caulk any gaps between
the interior wood trim and the wall to again minimize infiltration. © by Jim Sulski. All rights reserved. February 9, 2005. NOTE: This column is distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate, PO Box 366, Glencoe, Illinois, 60022. This column may not be resold, reprinted, resyndicated or redistributed without written permission from the publisher. © 2005 by Ilyce R. Glink. Distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate. |
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