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Hanging Wall PanelingBy Jim Sulski Summary: Your local home improvement store is full of all kinds of paneling alternatives. These products can be especially useful in high use rooms, such as family rooms and rec rooms. Jim gives you the steps to installing this highly durable product. While paneling has become somewhat passe in the 1990s, it's still a viable
wall covering, especially in basement rec rooms and family rooms that take a
lot of abuse from children. Its major advantage is that paneling can last years longer than wallpaper or paint. In addition to being a durable wall covering, paneling adds a completely different look to a room, whether it is made of real hardwood or is a simulated wood made from a wood composite. And it is also fairly easy to install. The first step is to plan out the job on paper to ensure you have enough materials. Since most paneling comes in four-by-eight foot sheets, space them out appropriately. Paneling can be placed directly over a plaster wall or drywall, especially if the surface is in good shape. If the wall is in poor condition, or if it is a concrete wall in a basement, it is recommended to attach furring strips to the wall and attach the panels to those. Long horizontal furring strips should be nailed to the wall 16 inches on center. Secure them to the studs below. Shorter vertical furring strips should be placed at 48 inches on center and also secured to the studs. There should be vertical furring strips on both insides of each corner. The furring strips in a sense are a skeletal frame for the panels. So if the panels are wider or narrower than standard panels, adjust the furring strips to match. Use a level to make sure the furring strips are straight. And use shims behind them to make sure the strips are flat and level, avoiding any swells in the paneling once installed. The next step is to measure the first panel for cutting. First, size the height of the room. Apply that measurement to the panel, minus a half-inch or so. That gap will be covered by molding (If the walls are taller than eight feet, you'll need 12-foot high panels to cover that gap). Measure both ends of where the top of the panel will be placed. If the room isn't square, you'll need to cut the top of the panel on a slight angle to conform to the wall. If you're cutting the wood with a circular saw or saber saw, cut with the paneling face down. Circular saws and saber saws are best for long cuts in the paneling, with the use of a straight edge. If you're using a handsaw, which cuts on the down stroke, cut the panels face up. A handsaw is best for short cuts or for cutting openings for electrical outlets or switches. The best way to mark the location of an opening on a panel is to coat the perimeter of the projectile with a washable magic marker. Then, before the ink dries, line the panel up in its proper place and press it over the fixture or projectile. The ink will make an impression on the back of the panel, offering a guideline on where to cut. You can also use chalk to leave an impression on the back of the panel. Then, drill starter holes in the corners of the impression and cut the rest of the impression out with a hand saw. For irregular edges that will come up against the paneling - such as a fireplace or a window - use a compass to make a precise cut. Cut the panel a half-inch wider than the wall space it will cover. Then, open a compass to a half-inch. Place the panel to the wall next to the irregular space so that the edge is flush against the irregular space. Have someone hold it in place. Then use the point of the compass to scribe the contour of the irregular edge onto the panel. The pencil side of the compass will outline the cuts you need to make. After cutting the panel, put it in place and prop it up with scrap wood. Using a level, make sure it is perfectly plumb. Otherwise, the subsequent panels will not line up. When the panel lines up, remove it. Panels can be adhered to the wall via either nails or adhesive. If you choose
to use glue, apply the adhesive to the furring strips as well as the back of
the panels. Some adhesives require a few minutes to cure. © by Jim Sulski. All rights reserved. February 9, 2005. NOTE: This column is distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate, PO Box 366, Glencoe, Illinois, 60022. This column may not be resold, reprinted, resyndicated or redistributed without written permission from the publisher. © 2005 by Ilyce R. Glink. Distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate. |
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