How To Build Walls When Remodeling
By Jim Sulski
Summary: For do-it-yourselfers, building a
stud partition is a common task when undertaking a basement remodeling project
or room addition. Luckily, building a stud partition for a non-load-bearing
wall is a fairly simple task.
If you tend to think of a house as a living thing, consider the wood framing
below the walls as its skeleton.
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For do-it-yourselfers, building a stud partition is a common task when undertaking
a basement remodeling project or room addition. Some people use stud partitions
to divide a large bedroom into two smaller rooms.
There are two types of stud partitions - one for a load-bearing wall and one
for a non-load-bearing wall. The former, which supports the weight of a floor
or roof above, is a bit more difficult to build in that it requires construction
knowledge. For example, most exterior walls are load-bearing walls. It is not
a recommended job for the typical home improver.
However, building a stud partition for a non-load-bearing wall is a fairly
simple task.
When measuring out the framing for a wall, remember to figure in doors and
windows, and keep in mind how electrical conduit and or/plumbing, if any, will
be running through the frame wall.
Once you have your measurements, draw out a stud partition plan on paper.
Next, mark the location of the wall along the existing ceiling joists. This
will probably require removing a section of the ceiling's plaster or drywall
to locate the studs.
Remember, the closer the top of the stud frame - known as the top plate - snuggles
up to an existing ceiling joist, the better. Otherwise, you'll need to construct
a two-by-four block to bridge the gap.
For example, if the ceiling joists run parallel - versus perpendicular - with
the top plate of your frame, but are separated by a few inches of space, you'll
need to make some sort of connection.
The simplest way is with a nailing block that runs perpendicular between the
ceiling joists and will reach the top plate.
Down below, build the frame with two soleplates - an upper and lower soleplate.
This will make positioning the wall, once it's constructed, a lot easier.
Start by cutting the lower soleplate and attaching it to the floor using concrete
nails for concrete floors or lag screws for wood floors.
Later, after constructing the rest of the wall frame, you can secure the upper
soleplate on the frame to the lower soleplate.
Before securing the lower soleplate, however, make sure it will line up well
with top plate above. To do this, hang a plumb bob from the ceiling joists to
make sure the frame will be square and true. Otherwise, the wall will be on
a slight angle.
Next, start the construction of the wall frame by measuring out the various
pieces of the frame.
With most stud partitions, the vertical studs are spaced 16 inches on center,
meaning the center of one stud is 16 inches from the center of the next stud
and so on.
Of course, few stud partitions are built exactly at 16-inch increments. So
one side of the frame will have a shorter gap between the two end studs. Doors
and windows will also cause you to adjust the gap between studs.
Keep in mind that the completed partition should be about a quarter-inch to
three-eighths-inch shorter than the space between the bottom of the ceiling
joists and the floor, including both the upper and lower soleplates.
This will give you breathing room to raise the frame in place.
While laying out the frame, you'll have to accommodate any door and window
openings.
After all of the frame pieces are cut, lay the pieces in place with the top
plates and soleplates parallel with each other. Mark them for the vertical studs,
and attach the frame together using 16d nails.
The best way to attach the vertical studs to the horizontal soleplates and
top plates is via nailing into the vertical studs from above and below.
Once constructed, slowly lift the frame up and slide it on top of the lower
soleplate. This will require the help of a second set of hands. Then raise up
the frame so it meets the ceilings joists. Prop it up with wood shims or a one-by-two
to temporarily hold it in place.
Next, secure the stud wall by attaching the top plate to the ceiling joists
above with 16d nails. Again, this may require breaking open the ceiling to find
the joists.
Check to make sure the frame is straight by using a level.
Your wall frame is now ready for drywall or paneling.
© by Jim Sulski. All rights reserved. February 1, 2005.
NOTE: This column is distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate,
PO Box 366, Glencoe, Illinois, 60022. This column may not be resold, reprinted,
resyndicated or redistributed without written permission from the publisher.
© 2005 by Ilyce R. Glink. Distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate.
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