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Installing A Shower UnitBy Jim Sulski Summary: The key to installing a shower unit is to size it properly. Jim explains how to select and install a shower in your bathroom. Considering the gallons of water that runs through them every day, it's not
surprising that shower units eventually wear out. Other times, home improvers
replace them simply for aesthetic reasons. And, of course, shower units are now included in just about every new bathroom that do-it-yourselfers add on to their homes. It's more common to find a shower unit in a bathroom than it is to find a bathtub. Replacing or adding a shower unit can be an elaborate but fairly simple and straightforward task. The key is to understand the proper sizing and space for the new unit, say the experts. The better the fit, the easier the job." The first step in the installation process is to carefully measure the area that will house a replacement or new unit. Shower units come in several sizes. Common are 36-inch-by-36-inch units and 38-inch-by-38-inch units. Also growing in popularity, especially in the construction of new bathrooms, are the larger 32-inch-by-48-inch and 36-inch-by-48-inch units. There are also different types of shower units. The simplest is simply a drain pan, basically a fiberglass shower bottom. The walls of the shower are then constructed out of waterproof drywall and tile. Next are paneled units. These usually consist of three separate fiberglass walls that are glued together and fit into the drain pan. Finally, there are one-piece shower units that include top, bottom, sides and door. If the existing space will not accommodate one of the above units, it will have to be retrofitted. The existing space may also dictate what type of shower unit you choose. For example, a one-piece unit is often difficult to get through a bathroom door. Another important aspect of choosing a replacement shower is drain location. With new shower units, the drain holes are almost always centrally located in the base of the shower. The simplest type of unit is a base or pan that fits into the floor of the shower stall. Then, you construct tiles walls, or install fiberglass panels, to build the rest of the shower. The first step is to construct a frame to support the shower unit out of two-by-fours. Keep in mind pipe clearance and use a few extra two-by-fours to support faucets, pipes and grab bars. Next, lower the shower base into the frame. Check to see if it lines up with the drain opening below. Using a level, balance the base with wood shims underneath. Screw the shims to the floor so they stay in place. Then, remove the base and make any additional connections to the drainpipe. Replace the base and install the rubber drain seal gasket. Next, secure the base flange to the studs with either rustproof screws or roofing nails (follow the manufacturer's directions). Caulk all of the joints in the base with 100 percent silicone caulk. Then, make any final plumbing connections. Next, you'll need to construct the walls of the shower stall. If you're planning on tiles walls, attach sheets of greenboard - a sort of water impervious drywall - to the inside of the stall. Cover gaps in the greenboard pieces with wallboard compound and tape, and sand when dry. Then, cover the walls with tile and grout. Make sure to caulk any gaps between tiles and the shower base, and around openings for plumbing fixtures. Fiberglass panels, meanwhile, are usually glued to the frame. Others are attached with screws or nails, as well as adhesive. Before attaching the panels, however, measure the walls of the stall to make sure they are plumb. If not, you'll need to trim the bottom edge of the panels with a hacksaw so they properly fit. In addition, you will need to cut the panels for plumbing openings. Remove any handles from the fixtures, as well as the showerhead, before measuring the openings. Measure twice and cut once here. Use a hole saw to cut the openings on the panel. Shower valves should be at least 48-inches from the floor, and the showerhead should be at least six feet from the floor. If they're not, you should probably replumb. Finally, caulk around the seams of the panels, including those at the bottom where the walls meet the base. Also, caulk around the openings for plumbing fixtures to seal them. The installation of a one-piece shower unit is also straightforward. Some are simply put into place over the drain and attached to the walls by inserting screws or roofing nails on the side flanges. Make sure to measure first for valve and showerhead openings. Other units require being built into a frame. Finally, hook up the plumbing and seal any seams on the unit with caulk. © by Jim Sulski. All rights reserved. January 26, 2005. NOTE: This column is distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate, PO Box 366, Glencoe, Illinois, 60022. This column may not be resold, reprinted, resyndicated or redistributed without written permission from the publisher. © 2005 by Ilyce R. Glink. Distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate. |
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