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Replacing Electrical OutletsBy Jim Sulski Summary: Homeowners can safely replace old or faulty electrical outlets on their own with these instructions. No electrician needed! Home electrical work is not something typically recommended for the do-it-yourselfer. Last week, however, we talked about replacing a broken light switch as one project that home improvers can easily handle.
This week will look at replacing old or faulty electrical outlets. Typically, do-it-yourselfers just like to update older, two-prong electrical receptacles with new ones that adapt to the three-prong plugs found on many electrical appliances today. In addition, older receptacles especially can short out or break." Simple tools will do the job and basic replacement fixtures usually cost less than a dollar. An electrical tester will also help immensely. A warning: Whenever working with electricity, be certain that the power is off to the circuit you're working on. In addition to flipping the circuit breaker to off, or removing the fuse, test the circuit with an electrical tester or plug a lamp into it to make sure it's not receiving power. Also, if the house wiring is decrepit - say it begins to crumble apart in your hands or is so brittle that it constantly breaks - call in a professional to replace it. Wall receptacles are replaced in a method similar to light switches. A couple of notes on receptacles: Replacement receptacles for kitchens and bathrooms, or any location that's close to sinks and tubs, should be a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). These receptacles monitor the current traveling in the wires that power an appliance. If the appliance - say a hair dryer - comes in contact with water and the current becomes imbalanced, the GFCI shuts off the power in a fraction of a second. That greatly eliminates the chance of electric shock. Also, outdoor receptacles should be replaced with units made specifically for outdoor use. Start by shutting off the power. Next, test the tester on an receptacle that still has power to make sure it works. Then use the tester to make sure the receptacle you're replacing is dead, placing the probes in the two openings. If the tester lights, you haven't shut off the power. With the power off, remove the receptacle plate cover, which is usually held on with a solitary screw. Underneath, there will be a mounting screw at the top and bottom of the electrical box holding the receptacle in place. Loosen them so that you can carefully pull the receptacle out of the box, wires and all. Note how the wires are attached to the receptacle. Mark them with tape or make a diagram. Loosen the screws on the side of the receptacle so you can remove the wiring and discard the old receptacle. If the bare ends of the wire are straight, use long nose pliers to bend the ends into a loop, so that the wire looks like a question mark. Next, fasten the wires back on in their original positions, wrapping the wires clockwise around the screws. Be careful so that bare portions of the wire don't touch other bare wires, or the side of the box. If the old receptacle was connected to a ground wire, fasten it to the new receptacle. Otherwise, the new receptacle will be self-grounding. To help prevent any shorts because of loose wires, wrap the sides of the receptacles and the screws with a length or two of electrical tape. Gently insert the new receptacle back into the box, carefully folding the wires as needed. Reattach the screws at the top and bottom, line the receptacle up straight, and tighten the mounting screws. Replace the receptacle cover, turn the power back on, and use the tester to make sure the circuit is functioning properly.
© by Jim Sulski. All rights reserved. May 5, 2005. NOTE: This column is distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate, PO Box 366, Glencoe, Illinois, 60022. This column may not be resold, reprinted, resyndicated or redistributed without written permission from the publisher. © 2005 by Ilyce R. Glink. Distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate. |
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