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Storm DoorsBy Jim Sulski Summary: About this time of the year, summer's warm breezes quickly become a memory, replaced by icy drafts from the north. . About this time of the year, summer's warm breezes quickly become a memory, replaced by icy drafts from the north. A noticeable spot of infiltration for those chilly currents in many homes are entry doors. A fairly simple remedy to this problem is the often-disregarded storm door. In addition to providing a wind block, a good-functioning storm door also establishes a dead air space between itself and the entry door, creating insulation against infiltration. It also protects an entry door from the elements such as rain and sunshine. During the summer months, a storm door also keeps cool air in and warm air out of a house. As a result, storm doors can pay for themselves in a year or so thanks to utility bill savings, especially on older, draftier homes. And storm doors are fairly easy to install, to boot. Before the actual installation, the first step is to accurately measure the door opening. If an existing storm door is in place, remove it and any trim that goes with it. Then, measure the door opening from inside the jamb. Don't measure the existing door. Start by measuring from the threshold below to the door top, on both sides of the door. Vertically, measure three times - at the top, middle and bottom of the door opening. The measurements will tell you which specific door size to buy. Also, note which way the storm door should open - sometimes, porch railings, windows, walls or other doors mandate that a door swings open only to the right or left. That will determine whether you buy a right-handed or left-handed door. Finally, take note of the trim in the door opening. There usually needs to be at least one inch of flat surface on the surrounding jambs - also known as brick moulds - for a new storm door to be mounted correctly. If there's not, you may need to remove some of the trim. Or, you may need to install small wood strips to level out the surface. Start the installation by holding the door up to the opening to check its fit. Next, install the rain cap centrally above the door, positioning it to the height recommended by the manufacturer above the threshold. Use only one screw to attach the rain cap so that it can be easily adjusted. Now, measure the distance between the bottom of the rain cap and the top of the threshold or doorsill. Then find the Z-bar, also known as the hinge-side mounting flange, and use a hacksaw to cut the piece to fit the opening between the rain cap and threshold. Be careful not to damage the attached weatherstripping. Sometimes, the door comes attached to the hinge flange. The flange will still be oversized, however, requiring some cutting with a hacksaw. Attach the cut Z-bar to the side of the opening with one screw at the top hole. Then, use a level to make sure it's plumb. Install the additional screws to the Z-bar to attach it in place. Then, hang the door on the Z-bar if it's unattached. Next, rehang the rain cap, attaching the additional screws. Measure the space between the bottom of the rain cap and the top of the threshold opposite of the hinge-side of the door. This is where the latch-side mounting flange or Z-bar will be placed. Cut the latch side Z-bar to the specific length and attach it to doorway. Make sure the door closes snugly before fastening the Z-bar and use a level to keep it plumb. You may also need to leave a small gap to allow for expansion and contraction of the door during the cold and hot months. Check with the manufacturer's instructions. Once the trim is installed, use caulk to seal any gaps. Attach the adjustable door sweep to the bottom of the door. Next, install the lock assembly and doorknob through the pre-drilled holes on the door. Then, screw the unit's strike plate to the doorjamb so that it properly grasps the doorknob. Finally, install the automatic closer. Start by attaching the jamb bracket near the top of the jamb and a door bracket to the inside top of the door. Then, attach the hydraulic closer cylinder to the door and jamb brackets with the provided locking pins.
© by Jim Sulski. All rights reserved. April 20, 2005. NOTE: This column is distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate, PO Box 366, Glencoe, Illinois, 60022. This column may not be resold, reprinted, resyndicated or redistributed without written permission from the publisher. © 2005 by Ilyce R. Glink. Distributed by Real Estate Matters Syndicate. |
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